Cosmetics with Compassion - The Vegan Story

May all sentient beings have happiness and its causesMay all sentient beings be free of suffering and its causesMay all sentient beings not be separated from sorrow less blissMay all sentient beings abide in equanimity, free of bias, attachment and anger.

Putting this philosophy into the context of the cosmetics industry we can see an immediate dilemma, a basic truth that sits at the very heart of the matter. To be a consumer is to take, to use-up and to acquire or use something for your own purposes.Cosmetics are discretionary purchases made from material that is animal, vegetable or mineral - no matter. In all cases those materials come from somewhere to be utilized or put to some non-essential purpose at the expense either of something else (food or fuel maybe?) or left to just be.Either way the vegan wishing to participate in the cosmetics industry is left to weigh up their consumptive choices by evaluating which one represents the lesser of two evils. There is always a price to pay which begs the question "Can a vegan cosmetic ever deliver a benefit that is worth the sacrifice?" Answering that is best done from a distance.

Weighing It Up

In saying that all cosmetics are non-essential that doesn't mean that their use is trivial and of non value. The psychological impact that comes from taking care of and decorating our skin and hair plays an important role in many social customs both ancient and modern. Be it demonstrating a work ethic and attention to detail, showing our tribal colours and allegiance or just an outward celebration of our own self respect the cleansing preening and decorating ritual of daily care re-enforces who we are and as such plays a vital part in connecting us to our tribe.

So when it comes to tribes what does the Vegan tribe look like?

The Lightest Path As we have seen above veganism is about compassion, reading lightly on the earth, not contributing to suffering and working towards a more blissful connection with the earth. While we now may appreciate why that is difficult to achieve absolutely in terms of cosmetic ingredients it is possible to go some way towards creating and buying into brands and ingredients that represent a more respectful and considered lifecycle. It is in that space that we find the vegan brand sitting.

Ingredient Choices
It goes without saying that animal derived ingredients are out. These can be defined as an ingredient that is produced from an animal that has to die in order that the ingredient may exist. Examples of this would be:

Glycerine - from Animal (and for some from Palm which we will mention later):Glycerine/ glycerol/ glycerin can be produced from the saponification of animal fats. The animal fat being part of the 'meat' requires that the animal be slaughtered first.

Emu Oil - from emu:
Again this is the fat from the animal and as such it has to die before yielding this material.

Tallow and tallow derivatives - from bovine sources:
Tallow is the name of the most abundant triglyceride found in beef fat. Chemically it is a mixture of many fatty acids including Palmitic, stearic, Oleic and Palmitolenic but we give it the 'common' name of tallow. As a source of fatty acid it could be used as a feedstock and turned into a number of down-stream ingredients such as stearic acid, glycerine (see above), various stearates (as in soap making).

Hyaluronic acid - from rooster comb:
This is not the normal source any more but a vegan brand should check their supply chain before committing to this ingredient).

Animal Derived Collagen and/ or elastin - usually from fish but can be from other animal sources:
These ingredients are commonly found in anti-ageing products that plump and re-structure the skin. Research is continuing into non-animal derived alternatives created from plant stem cells but at present the majority of collagen and elastin used in the cosmetics industry is derived from living beings with the exception of marine collagen which is manufactured from a seaweed extract. A quick look into the supply chain should confirm if the source of collagen is vegan friendly or not.

But it doesn't stop there. Veganism goes further than just wanting to avoid using ingredients that come from animal tissue; anything to do with the exploitation of animals is also on the agenda and off the menu. This includes:

Honey, beeswax, propolis, royal jelly etc.
A no-go because of bee enslavement - a false imprisonment or contrived environment for the bees to live and 'work' in order to produce for humans. A situation contrived for the benefit of humans.

Milk - goats, cows or any other milk-producing animal.
A product of the dairy industry - another un-natural (or synthetic) reality that sees dairy animals looked upon as units of productivity rather than as free and sentient beings.

Eggs - in cosmetics this could end up as lecithin although most lecithin nowadays comes from Soy.

And then we have the more tricky to unpick ingredients that seem to tick the box until you look a little closer.

White Sugar - While sugar is completely natural processing there are reports that the decolorisation process can involve animal by-products (a bone based material). It is difficult to find evidence of this and instead it looks like carbon filters are more commonly used but it does demonstrate how a vegan might have to trace the supply chain of each ingredient to ensure that its processing met vegan standards.

Silk - while it is possible to harvest silk in the wild without harming the worm (the cocoon is discarded usually) commercial silk is farmed with the harvesting involving boiling the silk worms. Silk proteins can be isolated from plant sources so silk its self isn't out but silk work silk is.

And then there is palm oil.
We have discussed palm oil in other articles and won't go into the logistics of that here but will say that some members of the vegan community feel that the loss of rainforest and animal suffering that causes is enough of a reason to strike palm and palm based ingredients off the vegan approved list.As it stands today the jury is still out in terms of this crop and its vegan approval status and the situation is likely to remain highly contentious for some time. Namely until the Round Table or equivalent gain traction and support for their certified oil and work towards more stringent environmental controls.

Palm oil is used as a feedstock in many cosmetic ingredients including emulsifiers, surfactants, humectants, emollients, waxes and butters.

So, what does New Directions have in store for those wanting a vegan option?
That is difficult to answer as while vegan brand owners do share the same big vision the interpretation of that vision is down to the individual and their brand philosophy. As such we strongly advise and encourage customers to contact us for clarification on the origin and processing of the raw materials they seek to buy and to check back regularly for updates as being a trading company we have multiple sources for some ingredients. That said New Directions is a member of the Choose Cruelty Free certification program which requires us to audit our suppliers with relation to their animal testing policies and material origin.

With that in mind please find below an overview (or starting point for investigation) covering our entire range of raw materials pointing out materials that may be worth looking into some more and others that could be problematic for the vegan brand owner.

• Essential oils are generally suitable for the vegan brand especially when sourced from the most common commercial crops (refer to CITES.org for information on essential oils that are produced from vulnerable species of flora or whose collection destroys fauna habitat).
   
• Absolutes - as above but excluding beeswax. Also keep in mind that the absolutes are difficult to produce and require a much higher ratio of plant material per g of oil than essential oils.
   
• Ayurvedic Oils - These are blended in sweet almond oil and contain natural vitamin E that is derived from sunflower and soy rather than palm.
• CO2 extractions - a good option for vegans as there is no solvent remaining in the extraction and the maximum plant material is extracted during the collection process so efficiency is high, waste low.
   
• Essential oil blends - pure essential oil blends only.
   
• Infused/ Macerated Oils - The benzoin (propylene glycol), Carrot (synthetic colour) and vanilla 10 or 20 fold (alcohol or vegetable glycerin which may be palm derived) are possibly not acceptable by all Vegans but the others should be compliant.
   
• Massage Blends - Should all be OK as palm free and animal ingredient free.
   
• Oleoresins - Should be compliant to vegan standards.
   
• Precious oil dilutions - OK
   
• Vegetable Oils - these should all be OK except for palm.
   
• Water dispersible massage bases - These contain the synthetic ingredient Polysorbate 85 which is not animal derived (it is plant plus ethylene oxide) but may not meet with the vegan brand philosophy.
   
• Dried Herbs - OK. These can be made into tinctures, extractions and decoctions.
   
• Herbal Powder extracts - as above.
   
• Liquid extracts cosmetic grade - Contain glycerin which may be palm derived. Otherwise Ok so vegan brands may want to do some more research on the palm issue before deciding on these types of extract.
   
• Glycerin extracts - made with a non-palm glycerin so acceptable for vegan brands.
   
• Oil Extracts - OK as in soy oil.
   
• Water based extracts - Vegan clients should check as each one is slightly different in terms of composition – preservative, glycerin and stabilizer.
   
• Acids - Our citric and malic acids are synthetically produced. The lactic is from a bacteria strain that is harvested from a vegetable source.
   
• Alkali - The sodium bicarbonate like almost all available to the cosmetic manufacturer is synthetically produced. Triethanolamine is also synthetic.
   
• Actives - where possible and practical the source of the material is given in the web description. However, due to the variety of actives we stock and the complexity of the manufacturing processes behind them it is recommended that vegan brands check with us before opting for any active. Our hyaluronic acid and peptides are not and will never be sourced from animal tissue but the way that the ingredient is processed may still need validating against a vegan philosophy.
   
• Amino Acids - Our Amino Acids come from a variety of sources including plant (Lysine from corn) and animal (Keratin from fowl feather). Therefore to be sure you get the material that you want it may be best to check at time of purchase.
   
• Anionic Surfactants - Our Anionic surfactants come from a number of sources also including palm and as such it is best to approach each on a case by case basis. Especially as from time to time we change surfactant manufacturer/ plant due to market demands.
   
• Anti-dandruff - this is a synthetic chemical.
   
• Antioxidants - Both Coenzyme Q10 and rosemary antioxidant should be OK for the vegan but more detail on the manufacturing process of each ingredient can be given on request.
   
• Butters - All OK
   
• Cationic Surfactants - Synthetic sources.
   
• Clays - All OK
   
• Colours - Henna and plant derived are OK. The mica is a natural ingredient but the process of manufacturing may need evaluating to ensure it meets vegan standards of ethics.
   
• Emollients - This is also tricky as there are so many different types. If we are looking for palm free vegan options that are all natural the choices would be coconut fractionated oil, capryloyl glycerin/ sebacic acid copolymer, diheptyl succinate or vegetable squalane. If palm wasn't an issue but ingredients had to be natural we could add Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearyl Isostearate, MCT Oil, Oleyl Oleate, Stearyl and Stearate to the mix. If synthetics weren't a problem then the silicones and petroleum jelly become an option too.
   
• Exfoliants - all of the natural options fit the vegan bill in terms of origin but environmentally some may represent smarter choices than others.
   
• Humectants - There is no choice on there that fits the vegan, palm free natural philosophy. If palm isn't an issue then glycerine is a good starting point.
   
• Minerals - Should be OK but manufacturing flow diagrams may be useful to help check on the processing conditions. Otherwise a consideration of the environmental impact of mining the minerals may be in order.
• Mud and volcanic ash - Again Ok from an origin perspective but the collection of the materials may be something to consider in terms of vegan philosophy.
   
• Non-Ionic Surfactants - If palm free and all natural is a pre-requisite none of the surfactants match. The corn derived glucosides are a good option otherwise but the fatty acid component is palm derived.
   
• Preservatives - The naticide which is derived from the almond tree is a good choice as is the p anisic acid (Basil) but others are either synthetic or likely to contain palm.
   
• Protein - The soya protein powder is the only viable choice here.
   
• Resinoids, gums and crystals - The ingredients in this range should all comply with vegan ideals but the processing and supply chain may require additional investigation to ensure it meets the specifics of your brand requirement.
   
• Salts - should all comply with vegan standards but again environmental impacts may need to be considered.
   
• Solubilisers and Emulsifiers - The lecithin which is from Soy is the only option that would meet the requirement of being palm free and natural. If palm isn't an issue then the decaglyceryl monolaurate, Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate and sorbitan stearate could be considered.
   
• Solvents - D Limonene, Ethanol and water should meet the requirements of being natural and palm free and may therefore be suitable for vegan brands.
   
• Sunscreen - Titanium Dioxide and Zinc oxide are the only viable choices here. While neither is produced naturally both are seen as 'nature identical minerals' that comply with most organic/ natural standards (although zinc is favoured in Australia).
   
• Thickeners - Acacia Senegal Gum and xanthan gum, Aluminium Magnesium Silicate, Carrageenan, Guar gum, Magnesium Stearate, Tapioca Starch and xanthan gum are all viable options but again it would be wise for the brand owner to do their own reading about each one before deciding if it fits the brands vegan ideal.
   
• Tinctures - The ambergris is an obvious no, no but otherwise with the alcohol being from non palm sources these should be suitable for the vegan brand.
   
• Vitamins - Most vitamins are synthetically produced and as such it is best to deal with these on a case by case basis. The most commonly used – vitamin E is vegan friendly being from vegetable sources (non palm) and being processed in a physical rather than chemical way.
   
• Waxes - The Candelilla, Caranuba, Macadamia, Rice Bran and Soya are all good options for the vegan brand in terms of straight waxes. Emulsifying waxes are trickier for those looking for palm free (the only option we have is the Glyceryl Stearate Citrate. If palm isn't a problem then the vegetable or olive emulsifying wax are good options as is the glyceryl stearate and potassium stearate.
   

In terms of the types of product that the vegan brand owner can make please find below a list of cosmetic products ranked from easy to challenging in terms of ingredient choice and availability especially when the vegan brand also favours all-natural but palm free.

Easy: Lip Balms, Sugar Scrubs, Dry clay blends, Mineral make-up, Massage Oils, Candles, Body butters (non-emulsified), hydrosol blends, oil cleansers, Talc, dry shampoo, dry deodorants, salt baths or scrubs, essential oil blends, moisturizing oils, bar soap, liquid castile soap, simple serums.

More difficult: Spritz Sprays, natural liquid deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, bubble bath, makeup primers, basic moisturisers, toothpaste.

Highly Challenging:Liquid foundations, Sunscreens, Anti-ageing creams and serums, AHA products.

The path to creating a vegan range is a long and winding one full of research and supply chain decisions. The team at New Directions is always happy to support you on your journey and will do our best to furnish you with the information you and your brand require. However, while much of the information and support we offer is provided free of charge, personalized ingredient reviews and document checking does take many hours of work and as such it is sometimes necessary to charge for this level of service. If this is the case you will be advised accordingly.

Happy and compassionate shopping!

Amanda Foxon-Hill

21 October 2013