Extracting Greatness with Glycerin

The New Directions team has been busy developing an exciting rangeof glycerin based extracts to tantalise your R&D taste buds and bring an extra layer of freedom to your Natural and Organic formulating so let's have a look and see what all the fuss is about!

In many cultures the traditional way of extracting skin potent actives from plant material is to steep the material in an alcohol solution for a period of time. Being a powerful solvent alcohol is able to draw these useful chemicals out of the botanical mix so that they may more easily be digested either orally as is with herbal medicine or topically which is what we focus on. However, while potent and arguably the best way to ensure a high yield of actives are extracted, alcohol isn't without its problems or skin concerns.

Steering clear of alcohol is desirable for a number of people - medicinally, for those who have a sensitivity or problem with alcohol as with the very young or weak; religiously- alcohol in the form of ethanol is not Halal and biologically for those who find or perceive alcohol to be too drying on the skin.

Luckily alcohol isn't the only solvent able to extract the goodness from plants, glycerin - another alcohol chemically speaking- while being a gentler and less potent alternative - is also a contender and is what we have used for our newest range of extracts. These extracts contain no preservatives as Glycerin serves as a natural preserving agent.

It also makes it easier to work out how to label your cosmetics as the extract ingredients are simple!

Glycerin extracts are not a new thing and have a history of use in herbal medicine and are particularly prized in the medicine of the American Indians so while it is fair to say that the glycerin doesn't release as much or as diverse a range of actives from the plant material as alcohol if produced correctly it provides a gentle yet powerful alternative for those needing the alcohol free option.

Our exciting range offers something for everyone so come take a look and discover what the power of our organic certified glycerin extracts can do in your formulations.

Bilberry - Created using Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract [Min. 25% Anthocyanidins]:
Bilberry is a variety of Blueberry mainly used for its therapeutic benefits. It is a perennial shrub native to Northern Europe, North America and Canada. A rich source of L Ascorbic Acid (water soluble vitamin C - approx 50%) Bilberry has been shown in many studies to reduce inflammation and increase the skins healing ability.Anthocyanidins are another key active in the Bilberry, these bioflavonoids, responsible for the colour of the fruit or vegetable are powerful antioxidants assisting in collagen functioning.

Finally with its fresh fruit appeal, deep colour and sweet taste this extract has great marketing appeal.

Bitter Almond - Created using Prunus Amygdalus Amara Seed Extract.
Rich in healthy fats, proteins, minerals and vitamins Bitter Almond is a skin health super hero. The seeds and nuts have been found to assist the body in recovering from disease, stress and fatigue by stimulating the immune system and acting as antioxidants, mopping up free radical damage. A rich source of Vitamin E, Poly unsaturated fatty acids, arginine, potassium and the phenolic acids caffeic acid and Ferulic Acid.

Great for health conscious brands, brands promoting natural living or holistic beauty.

Cranberry- Created using Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract [Min. 25% Anthocyanidins]
Cranberries are packed with skin-active nutrients such as Vitamin E and resveratrol - a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. Their deep red colour indicates the presence of a rich array of bioflavonoids which assist in collagen functioning, skin health and stress management. Cranberries are also well known for their anti-adhesion action on certain bacteria which makes them an effective active for maintaining the health of the gut, urinary tract and oral cavity. In terms of skin health cranberry really comes into its own as a powerful and all-natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

Gotu Kola: Created using Centella Asiatica Extract [Min 10% Triterpenes]
Commonly used in traditional Chinese and Ayuvedic medicine for its anti-bacterial properties and re-energising power this is a powerful addition to any high-energy skin or hair care brand. The extract contains additives that help in reducing inflammation while increasing collagen function which make this great for wound healing products.

The triterpenes contained in Gotu Kola that have skin and hair benefits are the moisturizing Squalene and the blood flow stimulating Gandoderic acid.

Green Coffee Seed - Created using Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Green Coffee seeds provide moisturising, softening, nourishing and toning qualities that are useful in skincare products designed for dry, sensitive and delicate skin and in shampoos for dry and lifeless hair.

Coffee seeds contain significant quantities of tannins which offer astringent properties found to be valuable in applications for oily skin.

Green Coffee seeds also have antioxidant, smoothing, restructuring and regenerating qualities which make this extract ideal for anti-ageing skincare products for mature and damaged skin and for restructuring hair care products for dry and damaged hair.

Green Tea- Created using Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Green Tea extract is a rich source of anti oxidants, such as Vitamin C and Vitamin E but it also contains many more biologically active components such as amino acids, carotinoids, the stimulant caffeine, phytochemicals and skin-friendly lipids. The extract is reported to help repair the effects of aging and environmental factors. Green tea catechins are potent antioxidants with the most well known being epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate and epicatechin collectively known as EGCG's.

Please note that our green tea is not always green as 'green' relates to the species of tea rather than the colour! As this is a natural herb powder the colour can vary with the most usual colour being brown-orange rather than green. As a consequence of this you may notice batch to batch variations in your green-tea containing formulations and this is perfectly normal for natural cosmetics.

Kakadu Plum - Created using Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Kakadu Plum is a native tree from Australia which is found exclusively in the Northern Territory and around Arnhem Land. Traditional land owners use the plant as an antiseptic skin healing remedy as well as a food source but today's cosmetics are including it as one of nature's "super foods".

The Kakadu Plum fruit has the highest known Vitamin C concentration of any single natural food source in the world- approx 3000mg of vitamin C per 100g of fruit which is over 50 times that found in Oranges. This makes it an excellent antioxidant to include in your cosmetic manufacturing needs.

Licorice Root- Created using Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract [Min. 10% Glycyrrhizinic Acid]
Originally from central Europe, licorice now grows all across Europe and Asia and is being used for its soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-viral properties. These properties of the root have been considered responsible for its effectiveness in the treatment of numerous skin disorders, including eczema, dermatitis, impetigo, and traumatized skin and as such we recommend this for products targeting dry or sensitive skin.

Licorice is also useful in skin lightening and as such can be a great addition in products looking to even skin tone and brighten the complexion.

Olive Leaf - Created using Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
The extract from the leaf of the Olive tree, when properly prepared, is considered by some to be one of nature's most powerful natural antiviral and antibiotic substances.

Olive leaf contains the active monoterpene oleuropein which give the extract a bitter taste and much of its activity. These actives are produced by the plant as its primary defense against microbe attack and as such can be employed in cosmetics as part of a natural preservation strategy. The extract also contains Triterpenes and flavonoids which act as antioxidants and anti-inflammatory actives.

Rice Protein - Created using Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein
Rice protein is a rich source of amino acids that assist in skin repair, moisturisation and barrier protection.

Check back on our range regularly as we are always developing new blends to keep your cosmetics at the forefront of natural activity and vitality!

Amanda Foxon-Hill

17 July 2013