We instinctively carry out sensory evaluations on the cosmetics that we buy, make and share. Even if we are not expecting a smell (a fragrance – free moisturiser for example) it is not unusual to find ourselves opening up the pack and breathing in the aroma before we even decide to smooth it over our skin. Satisfaction here means that we move to the next level of sensory evaluation and try it out on our skin, casually evaluating how easy it is to rub in, how it flows out of the pack, how it leaves our skin looking and feeling. But what do we base our opinions on and is this science or art?

For most of us, the thought process involved in adopting a new product come from one of two main places – firstly the marketing (are we attracted to the pack design, the colour scheme, the promise, the sound of the ingredients, the claims). It is not unusual for brands to spend more than ten times more money on the 'outside the pack' stuff vs. what goes inside – the product that you are actually buying. But this is only half the story and while a great pack, extensive advertising and great product positioning will get you your first (potentially huge) run of sales, you are unlikely to become a household favourite if what's in the pack doesn't match.

Once you've had your product taken off the shelf and placed into the bathroom of your new client the next, most important step for long-term loyalty begins. Is your client getting an experience that matches their expectations? Having not tried your product before the client will benchmark their new experience against an existing favourite brand and that is where things can get difficult for the product developer. You may think you understand but how sure are you of knowing exactly what brand each of your new clients bought before they swapped to you? Yours may be the first 'organic' brand that they have ever tried – opting before for a big-name anti-ageing moisturiser with a brighter-than-white finish and a strongly perfumed aroma...... Alternatively your customer may have been using a high-end brand before and in a bid to trim the household budget has gone for your cheaper-yet-same-claims offering. How will you fair? What can you do to help put your brand and its unique set of benefits stand out for all the right reasons?

Contrary to popular belief, when we develop cosmetics we are carrying out a series of scientific experiments. We must use our knowledge of chemistry to understand what ingredients will work together and keep our creation stable and must use our knowledge of biology to choose actives that will work as we expect them to. However, we also appreciate that our enjoyment of cosmetics rests not only in us having the most stable or most active product. As we have discussed above the look, feel and smell really matter.

A full sensory evaluation protocol is based on science but takes into account all of the touchy-feely aspects that we (the average product purchaser) know and love. A sensory laboratory will have at its disposal a panel of paid, expert evaluators who have been trained over a minimum period of six months to identify the subtle differences between products in terms of look, feel, smell and flow. Multinationals will carry out this type of testing at various points in their product development cycle to make sure that their chemists are delivering the right look, feel and smell with their scientifically correct formula. However, with a standard panel consisting of at least 150 people for good statistical results this type of testing is beyond the scope of many brands. So what now?

While establishing and training an expert panel of evaluators is beyond the scope of all but the largest of test houses and brands, social media, personal networks and customer databases can give us a little of what we need to evaluate our new creations. The key is in not leading the witness so with that in mind; here are some tips to creating your own mini-sensory evaluation panel.

COMMON TRAPS AND HOW TO AVOID THEM

1) Beware of opinions from existing customers. OK so they love you for a reason and yes, of course you need to listen very carefully to them as they probably know more about your products that you do but these people are bias in all the best ways. Your existing customers hear of your products way before they get to the shelves (via your facebook page, twitter or from dropping in for a cuppa) and are in love with the idea way before they see the product and in the world of sensory evaluation that is not good. Capture this enthusiasm in the best way by recruiting them to a blind trial (see details below).

2) Capture something measurable. It's nice when everyone reports back that they loved the product, that is was really 'nice', that it felt 'good' and that they would buy it but this is a bit wishy washy. Simple questionnaires that focus on one aspect of your new offering can be constructed and distributed quickly and relatively cheaply now thanks to social media. These results may still not be statistically relevant but should give a good insight into what people are really thinking.

3) Concentrate on one thing at a time.
You love your new creation and want to show it all off but this can be confusing to your test panel who then tend to respond with an 'I like/ don't like it ' where the 'it' is the whole. What you need to know first-off is how people respond to each part of the sensory journey so break it up fi rst BEFORE revealing the whole product.

4) Compare to an honest benchmark. The best way to do this is to actually ask your key target market to tell you what your competitors are. You probably had a great idea when you started but if your brand is over 2 years old the chances are that competitors have come and gone, changed their offering and their shelf presence. Then use this as a sensory guide when evaluating your product: Does benchmark spread as well as mine? Does benchmark look as shiny? etc...

5) Speed is of the essence. People get busy and have short attention spans because of this. Do not let your testing go on for too long in terms of questions asked or time-frame for re-submitting their responses. If you can't finish the job within half an hour, break it down is a good general rule of thumb – well, unless you are paying your evaluators...

It is easy to assume that sensory evaluation is just a matter of common sense and to a large degree it is. However, if conducted scientifically it allows you to open the door to the minds of your public and find out not only what they really think but what they feel when they use your products. Sensory evaluation can help you understand why your new products sell well when they are first launched but then fail to stay the distance. It can also help you understand the connection between the product on the outside (marketing) and the inside (formulation) and that information is truly priceless.

If you want to find out more about sensory evaluation and how to conduct it or need help recruiting a panel for your testing contact us at New Directions and find out what else we can do to help you and your brand succeed.

Amanda Foxon-Hill

28 November 2011