Inspired by Skin - Oil Plus Water Equals Naturally Beautiful Skin

When we look closely at the skin we find that it is covered in tiny holes that excrete liquid onto its surface.The first of these holes are the pores or hairless (or fine hair) hair follicles. There was once a time when we hairless apes were covered more hirsute.Our pores serve as a memory of that time as each pore on our face has the potential to sprout a hair - whether it will or not being something that is turned on or off by genetics, environment or disease.As we became less hairy the blood supply feeding our luscious facial and body hair began to wane as the follicle shrunk to what we see today - a small cavity from which sebum is secreted. When we look at our skin from the outside in it is easy to think of these holes - the orange peel look that we often see in oily or aged skins - as doorways into the body, delivery systems or weak spots where toxins as well as good stuff can get deep inside our bodies and either kill or cure us, the reality is somewhat different.These pores are designed to push out rather than soak in and while 'stuff' can of course get through the door, the door is not so much an opening to the body as a doorway to a self-ejecting cupboard - there is only so much you can shove in before the cupboard door will spring open and boot it all back out again - covered in a sebum soup!

Sebum is a complex mixture of fatty materials including cholesterol, squalene, free fatty acids, glycerides and wax esters.It performs many functions not least that of keeping our skin moisturised by slowing down the rate of evaporation of water from the surface.On top of that, presence of a bacteria Proprionibacterium acnes in our sebum helps support our immune system.Problems can arise when our sebum production either exceeds or falls short of what is required to keep our skin healthy.Further problems can arise when external factors interfere with our natural status-quo.The net result being dry and sensitive skin or enlarged or blocked pores which can become inflamed and infected under certain circumstances.As cosmetic chemists we seek to work with the body as best we can to avoid causing a reaction that leads to skin disruption.

The second type of hole found in our face is the sweat gland.Equally as important as the oil glands these holes excrete a watery substance rich in amino acids, lactic acid, urea and salts that provide our skin with the water-based nutrients needed to maintain skin condition.Our skin cells comprise of around 30% water, a reduction in which can lead to a dull, lifeless and grey-looking complexion so maintaining moisture balance is critically important in the quest to stay looking youthful, fresh and bright!

The acid nature of this secretion helps form a line of defence against microbes and reminds us as cosmetic chemists that we should be mindful of promoting over-washing as any disruption to this natural line of defence could spell trouble!

Blocking our sweat glands can lead to equally unappealing aesthetics and sensory outcomes.We might develop prickly heat, raised rashes, itchiness and/ or redness all because our sweat glands - which are primarily charged with maintaining a constant body temperature are prevented from doing this efficiently due to a them being occluded (covered).This can happen when we wear heavy make-up or oils on the skin, especially as we exercise or in summer when sweating.This prickliness can often be misinterpreted as allergy as it certainly feels like we are allergic but unlike in an allergic reaction the symptoms desist once the skin can 'breathe' again.

A second important function of our sweat glands is to excrete toxins via the skin.Again it is important to note that rather than act as Trojan horses through which to penetrate the skin, these sweat glands are designed to get stuff out! Our sweat carries with it many water soluble pollutants that find their way into the body and is one reason why our body odour changes when we travel (different foods etc.) or when we are sick - indeed this is one way animals can sniff out disease in humans well before we can.From a cosmetic chemist point of view we need to remain respectful of that and avoid situations where we trap toxins under a layer of product to again avoid being part of the problem rather than the solution!

The fact that our skin is the largest organ of the body is often mentioned by those in the cosmetics industry but the fact that it is as much an excretory organ as a protective one is often omitted or poorly understood.The cosmetic chemist would be wise to remember that above all else our products need to work with not against the skin, to compliment and support rather than restrict or block the natural order of things.

Oils and the Skin

There are times in our life when we need extra oils on our skin.Many of us find our skin to be dry and sensitive at times due to spending too much time in artificial environments (Air conditioning, artificial lighting etc.), through drinking beverages that dehydrate us - coffee, tea, alcohol, soda, through illness, travel or simply through harsh weather.Once our skins natural barrier function is impaired or damaged we can end up with a cascade of issues as our skin tries in vain to re-balance.In these cases an extra layer of oil on the skin can act like a raincoat in a storm, protecting what is underneath and preserving energy. While all oils will mainly sit within the top layers of the epidermis, some feel better than others and be more cosmetically acceptable.

Thinking of getting started in cosmetic oil and water blending? Here are some starter point materials to help you re-create that oil and water mixture.

Jojoba - Also known as 'Desert Whale Oil' due to the plants ability to grow in arid, desert environments and also due to the waxy, squalene-like composition of the oil.This light waxy oil forms a barrier on the skin without feeling at all greasy or sticky because of its unique chemical structure.It is often said to be similar to the skins own sebum but chemically that isn't exactly true although the long-chain waxy esters are less irritating than some of the other vegetable oils and the skin feel is appealing due to its soft yet non-greasy nature.Good for all skin types.

Macadamia Oil - Here in Australia this plays second fiddle to the Jojoba Oil but there is no real reason for this to be so.Macadamia oil also has some interesting chemistry being rich in Omega 7 Fatty Acid which has been found to have anti-inflammatory properties.Also for a nut oil it is quite stable and also has a light, pleasant and non-greasy skin feel.Again good for all skin types.

Apricot Kernel Oil or Sweet Almond Oil - These are cost effective, lightweight oils commonly used in massage and facial treatments.They are both a little greasier than the options above but are again pleasant and light enough for daily wear.The Apricot kernel oil is a better choice for very delicate skins due to its lower potential for irritation.The Sweet Almond Oil has a higher level of the skin-penetration enhancer 'free oleic acid' which can cause irritation for some.

Useful Skin-Inspired Water Loving Actives

However sophisticated and expensive our cosmetics become water will remain the single most important ingredient in the formulation and one that gives the largest return on investment.That said water can be given a helping hand with these key actives which both compliment and support the skin in its bid to stay young and beautiful.

Sodium PCA

This amino-acid enriched active mimics the skins own natural moisturising factor attracting moisture from the air and retaining moisture from your cosmetic formula onto the surface of the skin.The blend also contains Urea and Lactic Acid which are powerful moisturisers and skin pH adjusters respectively.

Aloe Vera Extract

Aloe is a powerful humectant or water binding active and that, along with its ability to soothe and calm inflamed skin makes it the perfect additive to any water-containing formulation.

AHA Fruit Acids

A gentle yet effective way to maintain the skin pH without irritation or harshness.This natural blend of fruit acids helps to keep the skin at a slightly acidic pH which in turn assists with microbe control.

Water and Oil - A match made in heaven.

Without water we are at risk of our oils clogging, over-heating and smothering the skin and without oil our water is just too wet and not protective enough.Together we can emulate what the skin naturally produces if we have the skills required to bind them.New Directions offers a two day cosmetic chemistry course to help you understand the science behind getting oil and water to mix and to enable you to unlock a world of limitless skin care opportunity.We would love to see you there!

Happy formulating.

Amanda Foxon-Hill

8 October 2014