What is Silk in Skincare?

Of course not so let's have a look!

Silk's wound healing properties.

Testing on non-human animals isn't something that I condone but I just had to share this as it makes the point beautifully. In this study mutant silk from a spiders web improved the healing times of traumatised rat skin so well that it is being looked at as an option for human burns victims. Now while that sounds like something from a horror show it does demonstrate one of the key properties of silk. Silk is a natural protein fibre and protein is made from amino acids. Our skin is rich in amino acids and so adding the right type of silk to the right type of product can help to strengthen and re-build the skin or hairs structure.It's a bit like that spray on hair or skin only a little more rudimentary.

Silk as a moisturiser.

Silk proteins and their individual amino acids are great molecular sponges that will soak up and deliver moisture into the skin. As our skin is over 70% water adequate hydration is just so important for its healthy functioning and so adding silk to a product is like giving your skin or hair a super charged drink.

Silk as a re-builder.

By the time you get down to smaller silk peptides or amino acids the molecules are small enough to be able to get through the top layers of skin and into the dermis. Whether they will or not is up to the vehicle that they travel in (the product base) but the potential is there. Once in the dermis they have been known to boost collagen production which in turn improves the look and feel of the skin making it plumper and younger looking.

Silk as a barrier

The larger molecular silk fibres do moisturise the skin from within the top layers but in addition they add to the skins barrier function. This natural fibre makes a light-weight, breathable film on the surface of the skin affording it some protection from the elements.

Silk as an anti-inflammatory

While I haven't been able to find any evidence to say that silk has a specific anti-inflammatory action the very fact that it moisturises, soothes and protects dry skin make it a secondary anti-inflammatory.

Silk to make you comply

This is my favourite property as it is all about the senses. We wouldn't be so excited about wearing our new anti-ageing moisturiser if it felt like a stratchy bail of hay would we? But how quickly would we rush to dive into a silky, smooth bath of skin goodness? The sensory properties of silk are key to its success in the skin care realm and should not be overlooked, especially if you are a maker of skin care products. People use more of something if they like it so make it good and better compliance will equal a better chance of getting optimal results and we all know that results are what keeps your customers coming back for more.

The New Directions Range

Silk Amino Acid

Rich in alanine, glycine and serine this ingredient provides the formulator with an elegant way to increase the moisturizing effect of their skin or hair product while keeping it feeling smooth and silky. The small particles make this really easy to add into your finished bases - just make sure it is fully wetted out before you add it to avoid clumping.

Use at between 2-5% for best results.

Silk Peptide

Peptides are larger molecules than amino acids and as such have similar properties to silk fiber. Again this is an excellent moisture delivery system but it also provides skin protection thanks to its molecular mesh structure which makes it a better choice in barrier creams and products for severely dry hair and skin.

Use between 3-5% in your product for best results. Soluble in the water phase.

Silk Powder

This is our 'super silk' as it has been especially created to contain a much higher level of fibroin than natural silk. Silk collected from silk worms generally consists of two fibrous proteins – sericin and fibroin. The sericin is a great anti-oxidant, good for UV protection and has some moisturisation properties whereas the fibroin has excellent water absorbency, insulation properties, the light and soft texture and good heat stability. That means that our silk powder is super soft, super good at absorbing water and has superior barrier function than other silks around.

Use between 0.5-3% and add to your water phase.

Amanda Foxon-Hill

12 April 2012