Why Good Hydration Means Great Skin Health?

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Why Good Hydration Means Great Skin Health?

Bad things are said about water in skin care products:

'Just look what the first ingredient in the list is..... water.... You are literally just buying water when you buy a moisturizer'


'Water doesn't do anything good in a skin care product, all it does is dilute the actives and oils'.

'Waterless cosmetics are better because they are more active'

'Water in a cosmetic product just evaporates off anyway and does nothing for the skin'.

But those comments are completely misguided. Our skin cells contain around 66% water, water which if taken away or compromised leaves us looking and feeling as silky, attractive and protective as a dried up old snake skin. Is that what you want?

Other than our lips, the skin that we show the world consists of a few thin layers of cells that we call corneocytes. While these corneocyte cells are technically dead given that they no longer have a functioning nucleolus, they still play a huge role in maintaining our health and vitality by providing us with a skin suit of armor that is both less reactive and hardier than the live keratinocytes that lie beneath. Corneocytes are filled with keratin, lipids, fatty acids and ceramides - the chemicals we typically find in the oil phase of a good quality cosmetic moisturizer - and these chemicals help to maintain the integrity of our skin barrier however, as important as these oily components are, without water the barrier is lost and we are left vulnerable to infection and disease.

Moisture is essential for all aspects of skin health and when it comes to the wet stuff our skin does a good job at capturing water and making it wetter and better than the regular old H2O that comes out of the tap. Our skin cells contain a fluid known as 'Natural Moisture Factor', a fluid that acts as our first line of defense against microorganisms and environmental stressors while providing long-lasting moisture to the cells. This complex mixture plays an active role in capturing and storing moisture from the environment, creating a reservoir from which the cells can function. Natural Moisturizing Factor also helps to feed the enzymes responsible for the production of replacement Natural Moisturizing Factor as well as being required for corneocyte maturation and normal desquamation of the skin.

Chemically the Natural Moisturizing Factor looks something like this:

Component Rough Percentage
Amino Acid 30-50%
2-Pirrolydon Carboxylic 7-18%
Lactates + Lactic Acid 7-18%
Urea 5-10%
Urocanic Acid (natural UV absorber) 2-5%
Mineral Salts 12-20%
Others 7-18%

 

Amino acids and salts act as humectants or water binding agents that swell up in response to the moisture that has been trapped. This swelling effect helps the outer corneocytes to better protect the underlying cells from the environment, protecting them from damage. The lactic acid is predominantly involved in maintaining our skin at an acidic pH which helps to protect us from micro-organism and infections while the Urocanic acid acts as a natural UV protector, helping to deflect some of the suns rays.

Even though our skin does all of this naturally there are many times when we need a little extra help. Modern life and modern habits and preferences tend to place our skin under a high burden of stress and things like showering once or twice a day with detergent-based cleansers and soaps can be enough to wash our natural moisturizing factor away. Then there's our love of swimming, of drinking caffeinated beverages which tend to de-hydrate us, city living and even the ravages of long-distance travel, they all take their toll on skin hydration.

So what can we add to our moisturizer formulations to better hydrate our skin?

EVERY-DAY HERO'S

Glycerin - We tend to take glycerin for granted these days but it is hard to beat it for its price: performance ratio in terms of skin hydration just as long as the weather isn't super dry and you are adding it in an oil-free serum. Being a powerful humectant glycerin will suck water from the air and hold it close to the skin for day-long hydration. However, in super dry environments it can turn its attention to your skin. This can leave the skin feeling tight and tingly, sensations often mistaken for irritation but really it's just the dehydration effect. The way to counter this is to have your glycerin delivered in an emollient base that is a moisturizer that contains oils and possibly some butters and waxes. This will help trap moisture close to the skin rather than see it all evaporate off. One exciting thing about glycerin these days is our ability to source palm-free stock for those that want to avoid palm.

Propylene Glycol - Those people looking to make organic or natural formulations steer clear of this as it is made from non-renewable resources but propylene glycol is also a great humectant and is less sticky feeling than glycerin. Propylene Glycol also has the ability to act as a skin penetration enhancer, which sees it often used in high-end actives and pharmaceuticals as an excipient.

Sorbitol - Sorbitol is a modified natural humectant that is also a good replacement for glycerin for those looking for a sweet taste and high-clarity additive. It is not quite as effective a humectant as glycerin, which can be good in low humidity environments when you only want a low level of humectancy.

SPECIALITY ADDITIVES

Sodium PCA is the Pirrolydon Carboxylic part of the NMF mix. It has a high rater retention capacity, 50% more than glycerin, double propylene glycol and up to six times more than sorbitol.

Pentavitin: (Saccharide Isomerate, Aqua, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate) is said to have a unique binding capacity to the skin via its skin-identical carbohydrate structure. While bound it stimulates gene expression to up-regulate the production of Natural Moisturizing Factor, Hyaluron and Ceramides in effect turning back the clock to skin that is younger, more vibrant and active than before. The binding mechanism for Pentavitin has been studied in vitro (using cell culture as opposed to in real-life) where it was found that Pentavitin attaches to keratin and that this attachment is long lasting. DNA micro assays of these same cells seem to point to this relationships ability to stimulate the gene that helps to control the skins barrier function. These cell culture results have been validated by positive in-vivo (human panel) test results which show visibly smoother and moisturized skin after treatment with 1% Pentavitin over a 14 day trial.

Beta Glucan - This naturally derived polymer of glucose is found in whole grains, mushrooms and dates where it makes up part of the soluble fiber component of the foodstuff. When applied to the skin beta glucan is fantastic at hydrating the skin and reducing the irritation potential of other ingredients. It's low dose rate (0.1-0.5) and reasonable price point make it a specialty active that can be used in most formulations for a little extra performance boost!

Hyaluronic Acid - We have three different types of Hyaluronic Acid on offer at New Directions currently. The low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid is great for products that require a low viscosity paired with a high dose of Hyaluran such as a spritzer, facial wash, milk or lotion. The regular Hyaluronic Acid powder is high molecular weight and allows the formulator to make a clear, high performance gel base for serums or for rich moisturizers while the 1% liquid is our easiest to dose option for those buying ready made bases or who have limited access to mixing equipment. Hyaluronic acid is another powerful humectant and also has good skin penetration enhancing powers. It tends to feel much softer, more cushioned and less sticky than glycerin and brings a luxury feel to a formulation. All of our hyaluronic acid is made from biotechnology so is natural and can be used in organics.

Have fun experimenting and whatever you do, don't forget the water!

Amanda Foxon-Hill

20 April 2016

More about: Hydration, Skincare

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