Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Formula

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Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Formula

 

Formula Type: Medium Viscosity Cream

Suitable Packaging: Bottle, Airless Pump.

Formula Number: NDMC0012016

Application:

  • Aloe and Camellia Day Cream Base

Note:

  • New Directions provides starting point formulations as a way of demonstrating how to use our raw materials. While this formula has been put through boot-camp stability testing, full physical and microbial stability testing must be carried out by the client prior to commercialization. We recommend doing this on a scaled-up batch testing both bulk and packaged goods. If you need more information on how to carry out stability and micro testing please speak to our staff.

Phase %W/W Raw Material Function
A 75 Deionised Water Solvent / diluent
  0.5 Aloe Powder 200x Strength Moisturiser/skin repair
  0.1 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent to help preservative work better
  3 Glycerin Humectant
  0.25 Xanthan Gum Thickener/ Emulsion Stabiliser
Heat phase A to 70-75°C. Mix until clear and until the xanthan gum is fully hydrated
B 12 Camellia Refined Oil Emollient
  0.5 Beeswax Emollient, thickener
  3.4 Shea Butter Emollient
  0.5 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Emulsifier Secondary
  3 Emulsifying wax vegetable (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) Emulsifier Primary
Heat Phase B to 70-75°C to melt ingredients. Turn off the heat and add phase B to phase A using an overhead mixer to stir continually until the two phases blend together and form a cream. Continue to mix on a medium speed until the temperature cools to 50°C or below.
C 1 Plantaserv P (phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)  Preservative
  0.25 Natural Vitamin E(tocopherol) Antioxidant for product and skin protection.
  0.25 Perfume of choice Aroma
Add ingredients from phase C into the mix with gentle stirring. Once all is combined move to a homogeniser and homogenise for 2-3 minutes to form a smoother cream
D qs Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution to adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 The ideal pH for this type of moisturiser is between 5.5-7. The preservative works across a broad range of pH and the skin naturally sits at 4.5-5.5. pH can be adjusted here if necessary. Usually an un-adjusted base like this will have a pH around 7 as that is the pH of water, the main ingredient influencing pH. The EDTA can make the product more alkali though while the aloe tends to reduce pH.
Remove from the mixer and test the products pH using a calibrated pH meter. Adjust as necessary to pH 5.5-7 using citric acid to bring the pH down or Sodium Hydroxide to increase the pH.
TOTAL 100